Project -XJ Evolution

dwcjwerfner

Well-known member
Club Member
Now, now, get it right. I did not buy a Heep. Lynne did, the YJ is hers. I just have to fix it and keep it running. The drivetrain makes up for the downside of having a jeep in the driveway.

Now if I stumble upon a V8 Scrambler, that would be a different story....

Hey stop hijacking my thread with stories of how you can wheel IF your wife lets you borrow her working Jeep.....
:heep: :rolleyes:
 

Farm Boy

Bought the Farm
Hey stop hijacking my thread with stories of how you can wheel IF your wife lets you borrow her working Jeep.....
:heep: :rolleyes:

As I scroll back thru the posts, it was acutally you who started the hijack of your own thread -- by asking when I'm coming wheeling, then Terry was second by questioning the Heep. But hey, it gets the post count up in your thread :D

When are you going to have your's back together?
 

dwcjwerfner

Well-known member
Club Member
Pics from Sunday that I haven't had time to post.
So now I think that front corner and my crossmember would both survive a catastrophic crash but the rest of the truck would probably just vaporize.





I also was having really hard time fitting a factory XJ fan as because I have raised my rear drive line up so far it has really moved the pulleys forward. (Cherokees stock have the 4.0l sitting on over a 10` downwards to the back)


I tried cutting the nuts right off if the pulley and welding and that gave me probably 1/8-1/4" clearance which still wasn't great for when you get twisted up so I looked around the web and found that I should do a pulley delete which is a big enough pain as you have to cut the pulley mount off and then pound the shaft back through the housing. I couldn't see why you can't just pound the shaft the other way but a big hammer and I couldn't persuade it. After cutting the pulley like the interweb told me it just knocked right out.




dj
 

dwcjwerfner

Well-known member
Club Member
I know, I know I should have just plated the whole front frame at some point but I was always just getting things to "work" so I could wheel.
Well after my vertical and almost flip backwards on Quinn at Suzican I managed to pull my panhard tabs complete with the 1/4" of metal they were welded to right out off the axle.
So I went a little overkill (I am hoping) on reattaching it



I had done that earlier in the week so I could take Steve's girls wheeling on the lot and I was going to go out yesterday with a leaking waterpump and hope for the best.
Instead I decided to change my pump friday night and upon inspection of my frame I see that the factory crossmember is now taking the brunt of the stress and not happy about it.



I took plate and welded it to the bottom and then molded it to the crossmember shape (read hit with hammer and sledge alot) and welded along the flat.



And then repeated the same for the top side.



It is very strong now as before I could flex it easily with a hammer or pipe wrench and now it is immoveable.





I hope now that it is finally going to take all the tire, gear and weight.
I am hoping there is no "weak link" left ...... ie: the entire front end rips off at firewall .... :lmao:

Dwayne
 

Baja

Well-known member
I would take that drag link off, straiten and sleeve it before it ends up like a pretzel. It looks like it is bend worse then before. The rest looks beefy though, hope that solves the frame flex problem.
 

dwcjwerfner

Well-known member
Club Member
Yeah it is bent more but differently than before, that was up at the lot fighting with that big rock going both directions. I have some DOM for it but I don't want to use it until I go high steer so yes probably sleeve for now, actually the panhard, drag link and tie rod are all currently sitting on the floor as the panhard and drag link got bent driving with my panhard broken off.

dj
 

dwcjwerfner

Well-known member
Club Member
Alright I have turned the rear springs into something resembling a race track so I either have to get my 1-link installed or put other springs in.
One of the hold ups on the 1-link is that I will need to move the fuel tank as the axle is going back and I want to run a stock pump configuration I have out of a ZJ and I am thinking of using this

http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=APR1000

But they do not have a listing for the ZJ screw, I think it will work but am not positive.
The other possibilty is to cut the flange off of the tank I have with some shoulder and have 2 rings cut and sandwich the shoulders of the flange between them.

Any opinions on the redneck option?

dj
 

Baja

Well-known member
I know you said you want to run a stock pump but you can get a E2000 inline pump off ebay for less then 50 bucks. Makes things much simpler and has no problem running the 4L. It is the pump I am running.
 

dwcjwerfner

Well-known member
Club Member
Just thinking no external pump to get ripped off / wrecked it's not like I have a lot of places to put it out of the way, you know sometimes coil springs can move start compressing on them lol, working fuel guage..... and I have several pumps around.
 
Last edited:

mucovich

Till Valhalla!
What about cutting the floor and "lifting" the fuel tank half inside the cab using a fuel tank skid plate as the new floor, would that give you enough room? I know it's not the cheap way but what about a fuel cell in the back. I'm strongly considering this myself because i'm thinking of moving my rear back some too.
 

dwcjwerfner

Well-known member
Club Member
Yeah I am actually going to have a fuel cell and that is why I am wondering about the ring. I actually have one already that is really cheap but it is huge (22 US gals) and I am having a hard time finding room for it. Actually that is part of what I am working on this weekend

dj

What about cutting the floor and "lifting" the fuel tank half inside the cab using a fuel tank skid plate as the new floor, would that give you enough room? I know it's not the cheap way but what about a fuel cell in the back. I'm strongly considering this myself because i'm thinking of moving my rear back some too.
 

dwcjwerfner

Well-known member
Club Member
So I have been wanting to build a front crossmember for a long time for tying the front end together even more and for a point to attach a suck down winch.
So I have to thank Scott as I was getting measurements and getting ready to calculate angles with the pythagorean theorem etc. and he (being the engineer) says "Hell no, just draw it and then trace it"
Thanks budddy.
What I have now accomplished with the front strengthening and this crosser is now essentially a boxed frame surrounding my track bar and steering box.







As I was doing this I kept thinking about my previous comment of tearing of right at the firewall and I got SKEEEEERED. So I plated a whole bunch more to where I am now fairly (still skeeeered abit) that the front will stay on.



 

dwcjwerfner

Well-known member
Club Member
Ok I know some of you thought I was crazy doing that stuff to my truck right before Lingham Power lines but I had an issue with my rear suspension that needed to be dealt with.









So as you can see when I started digging I found major problems where the body was seperating from the "frame" I guess a unibody is only going to take so much tire and gear before it leaves, especially when it is 22 years old.





Frame cracking, I wonder how many more trip(s) I would have got out of this crack?





Alright back to my reality which is that my truck was starting to pretty beat up mostly due to Crag, PJF, Crag and Crag.
The last time I was out on Crag I dented my top rear driver even more and ripped my hatch in 2.











So let the cutting begin!!

 
Top