Best to try bad male fitting with a new female fitting/VI's versa. Clean up the thread, and have both fittings in your hand and fully seat. Happens all the time when laying down gas pipe. Then again, it's malleable black iron...
|
|
|
My "Big Baby" Axle Swap thread
- Thread starter 2Greys
- Start date
Well I have had pinion nuts go bad but not the pinion, get another good pinion nut on there, if it won't bite properly you need to buy a die. What brand of gears are they? I had one not off and on a D44 over a dozen times once and only made sure I put a different nut on when I was done
It was yukon I picked up a spare pinion nut and I was going to keep the one that came with the master install kit for the final install. I would say I have had it on and off about 6 times maybe. Granted this one was definitely cheap. Need to find a 1x1/8 die. The edge of the thread has definitely f'ed up. Think OFS would have a die that size in stock? I will drop by there tomorrow.
Called a the usual local places and everyone doesn't have nor can get pinion nuts easily. I emailed PJF but this was after they closed yesterday. I had my order in for the ring and pinion for the 8.8 so I can probably put it in. I went to OFS as I think they are the only place that can get a die the right size. They had one but it was $60. Yeah no. I am pretty sure I am screwed and will have to buy a new R&P.
Basically I think what happened was I had bought a spare pinion nut from 4WP and was using that. I noticed it was getting a bit beaten up. When I tried to take it off last night I think it ended up screwing up the threads and siezed. I got fed up and used my impact wrench thinking it would come off. I think it then made it worse. To get it off I had to put a screwdriver behind the nut and force it off while turning. I got to the point where I knew it wasn't going to be good. Even if I rethread it I don't think there is enough there to get the nut onto with both bearings and the yoke.
I warned it not to make me mad... I guess this is a learning moment.
Basically I think what happened was I had bought a spare pinion nut from 4WP and was using that. I noticed it was getting a bit beaten up. When I tried to take it off last night I think it ended up screwing up the threads and siezed. I got fed up and used my impact wrench thinking it would come off. I think it then made it worse. To get it off I had to put a screwdriver behind the nut and force it off while turning. I got to the point where I knew it wasn't going to be good. Even if I rethread it I don't think there is enough there to get the nut onto with both bearings and the yoke.
I warned it not to make me mad... I guess this is a learning moment.
Last edited:
Hmmmm... if you get it fixed or get a new one make sure to keep it lubed
Not enough there to tap. The actual die would be 3/4-16 but as you can see the picture above the material got reduced at the top enough that there isn't enough exposed when putting on the yoke that it isn't worth it. When putting on the nut you usually have about 1/4-1/2" of thread visible outside the yoke and when you tighten it, it presses the outer bearing onto the bearing. I am cutting my losses and ordering a new ring and pinion probably tomorrow as well as the locker for the 8.8. I think the issue was I wasn't putting any anti-seize on the pinion and with the pinion nut thread being so soft, I had pushed it too far and got screwed. I may have been ok if I had a nut splitter but when I took it off I got fed up and tried to use my impact wrench on a low setting. That looks to have made it worse.
So the question now is once I get the new ring and pinion can I go get maybe a grade 8 nut and use that as part of the setup and put on a proper pinion nut when complete?
EDIT: So reading up a bit it sounds like the lack of anti-sieze was probably a major contributor in screwing up the threads on the soft pinion nut and when I tried to take it off I didn't make it any better using the impact wrench.
So the question now is once I get the new ring and pinion can I go get maybe a grade 8 nut and use that as part of the setup and put on a proper pinion nut when complete?
EDIT: So reading up a bit it sounds like the lack of anti-sieze was probably a major contributor in screwing up the threads on the soft pinion nut and when I tried to take it off I didn't make it any better using the impact wrench.
Last edited:
I would say no to the grade 8 as I would be afraid of wrecking the end of the pinion but apparently that can happen anyway, just keep it lubed.
So just a standard grade 5 bolt with anti-seize will suffice?
Thanks
Should be getting replacement tomorrow morning. I will probably go and get new nut tomorrow afternoon or wednesday.
Should also be getting the R&P and install kit for the 8.8 in about a week and the locker shortly after.
Next big purchases (control arms and Front LCA brackets) won't be until February but won't need them until (hopefully) end of of April.
If we get an early spring I should have them under the jeep by 3rd week of April. Knowing my luck we will have 4 feet snow by mid june
Should be getting replacement tomorrow morning. I will probably go and get new nut tomorrow afternoon or wednesday.
Should also be getting the R&P and install kit for the 8.8 in about a week and the locker shortly after.
Next big purchases (control arms and Front LCA brackets) won't be until February but won't need them until (hopefully) end of of April.
If we get an early spring I should have them under the jeep by 3rd week of April. Knowing my luck we will have 4 feet snow by mid june
Got my new ring and pinion and noticed a difference.
This is the original Ring Gear I got:
This is the new one (note the gold lettering and the gold block)
Both came in Yukon boxes and looked like the boxes hadn't been tampered with.
This evening I did a quick pattern just on pinion depth using what I thought the previous pinion should have and got the following:
Didn't bother with backlash yet as I want to nail down the pinion depth. I can adjust the carrier shims afterwards
Looks like it is still a bit too deep. This was with 10 thou less than the last pattern. Of course this is a new pinion so all bets are off, the preload needs at least another shim as the preload shims I had are not getting the same preload I had before.
I removed 5 thou from the pinion depth and will give another go tomorrow night.
This is the original Ring Gear I got:
This is the new one (note the gold lettering and the gold block)
Both came in Yukon boxes and looked like the boxes hadn't been tampered with.
This evening I did a quick pattern just on pinion depth using what I thought the previous pinion should have and got the following:
Didn't bother with backlash yet as I want to nail down the pinion depth. I can adjust the carrier shims afterwards
Looks like it is still a bit too deep. This was with 10 thou less than the last pattern. Of course this is a new pinion so all bets are off, the preload needs at least another shim as the preload shims I had are not getting the same preload I had before.
I removed 5 thou from the pinion depth and will give another go tomorrow night.
Chris Yukon Gear uses multiple manufactures to supply their growing needs.
In the past (and present on occasion) it wasn't uncommon to have two gears from two vendors with the same markings on them.
That being said if the gears do not respect YG specs they become a USA Standard gear.
This doesn't mean the gear is bad, it's simply means it my not have the finish (last cuts) they want to brand Yukon Gear.
As far as USA Standard gears go, we sell them 90% of the time to people building off-road only trucks.
The reason being, they are a great gear but might simply be noisier than a better finished gear. This of course is not an issue when only off-roading....
Thx
Danny
Thanks Danny, I figured that was the case.
Back on subject:
Pinion depth (~60 I can't remember but will get it if I need to redo)
RG: 0.035
NRG: 0.060
I thought it looks better. The BL is about 0.008.
Opinions?
Also the one thing I have not definitively found is what torque to put the Pinion nut to. The Dana manual is definitely wrong it is saying like 400ftlbs. The only thing I have seen regarding Dana 30s with Shim packs is 210 ftlbs.
Back on subject:
Pinion depth (~60 I can't remember but will get it if I need to redo)
RG: 0.035
NRG: 0.060
I thought it looks better. The BL is about 0.008.
Opinions?
Also the one thing I have not definitively found is what torque to put the Pinion nut to. The Dana manual is definitely wrong it is saying like 400ftlbs. The only thing I have seen regarding Dana 30s with Shim packs is 210 ftlbs.
Last edited:
Looks like a good pattern, anybody else agree? Those that know don't leave the guy hanging :beer:
Thanks Danny, I figured that was the case.
Back on subject:
Pinion depth (~60 I can't remember but will get it if I need to redo)
RG: 0.035
NRG: 0.060
I thought it looks better. The BL is about 0.008.
Opinions?
Also the one thing I have not definitively found is what torque to put the Pinion nut to. The Dana manual is definitely wrong it is saying like 400ftlbs. The only thing I have seen regarding Dana 30s with Shim packs is 210 ftlbs.
Chris if you want some free pro advice you can always call Randy's toll free 1-866-631-0196 and ask them their opinion.
You'll hook up by e-mail get pro advice!