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231/Dana 300 Doubler Build
- Thread starter 2Greys
- Start date
Rain sucks so I put the 231 back together.
Planning on selling it along with the Novak Cable shifter. Thinking $350 and comes with cableshifter and either a 36,39 or 40 tooth speed gear.
Anyone wants it let me know otherwise I will put it up online elsewhere.
Planning on selling it along with the Novak Cable shifter. Thinking $350 and comes with cableshifter and either a 36,39 or 40 tooth speed gear.
Anyone wants it let me know otherwise I will put it up online elsewhere.
Good news is I ordered a new input shaft from Novak and it is scheduled for delivery on Monday.
Better news is I measured the 231 vs the 231/300
231: 16.25" (that is to the middle of the yoke)
231/300: 15.75" (to the rear of the flange and that is including the flip ring and the backing plate for the 231.
I should be fine lengthwise, I may not even have to modify the rear driveshaft (although I am inclined to go to a Toyota style since I have flanges on both ends or at least the 1350 Spicer joints rather than the 1310).
The big challenge will be trying to get the bulbuous end of the 231 in with minimal disruption. That will be the deal this weekend when I have time.
Better news is I measured the 231 vs the 231/300
231: 16.25" (that is to the middle of the yoke)
231/300: 15.75" (to the rear of the flange and that is including the flip ring and the backing plate for the 231.
I should be fine lengthwise, I may not even have to modify the rear driveshaft (although I am inclined to go to a Toyota style since I have flanges on both ends or at least the 1350 Spicer joints rather than the 1310).
The big challenge will be trying to get the bulbuous end of the 231 in with minimal disruption. That will be the deal this weekend when I have time.
Took a couple minutes this morning and slid it in (that's what she said)
I had to cut a slot in the heat shield as it was impeding it from lining up with the output shaft. once I was able to line it up I was able to rotate it up to a decent spot and put the studs in the flip ring. I also was able to mark where the tub will need to be massaged. Which I did an initial time after the picture below was taken. It didn't move as much as I wanted but will jack it up later on to see if it was enough. Still keeping the idea of cutting into the floor. Compared to where it is sitting in the picture the transmission needs to go up about 3". If I don't have to rotate it anymore which I don't think I do, it will be in a good position
Also behold and admire underneath of my hack job shifter mount. Need to paint it still.
Note to self.: may need a new post-cat O2 sensor. One of the white wires has broken. That also assumes I can get the old one out. It is in there good.
I had to cut a slot in the heat shield as it was impeding it from lining up with the output shaft. once I was able to line it up I was able to rotate it up to a decent spot and put the studs in the flip ring. I also was able to mark where the tub will need to be massaged. Which I did an initial time after the picture below was taken. It didn't move as much as I wanted but will jack it up later on to see if it was enough. Still keeping the idea of cutting into the floor. Compared to where it is sitting in the picture the transmission needs to go up about 3". If I don't have to rotate it anymore which I don't think I do, it will be in a good position
Also behold and admire underneath of my hack job shifter mount. Need to paint it still.
Note to self.: may need a new post-cat O2 sensor. One of the white wires has broken. That also assumes I can get the old one out. It is in there good.
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Did some massaging and I can say if you are not running a tummy tuck it probably wouldn't be too bad. That said with Undercover Fab Ultra High Clearance skid I have massaged it until it has hit the next layer of steel. So I may have to do some cutting. The good news is it wouldn't really be seen as it is I believe it is in the channel under the seat.
Before that I am going to see if I can rotate it counter clockwise one hole as it would drop the upper most point probably about a 1/2 inch. the other thing i may do is there is some left over material on the upper edge of the 231 and it can probably be trimmed off which should give me another 1/4". It shouldn't affect the TC in any way.
Try to get a picture of how much I had to push it up. It broke through the steel and I will have to patch it a bit (probably just attach it to the steel underneath it).
Needless to say my shoulders and neck are tired.
Before that I am going to see if I can rotate it counter clockwise one hole as it would drop the upper most point probably about a 1/2 inch. the other thing i may do is there is some left over material on the upper edge of the 231 and it can probably be trimmed off which should give me another 1/4". It shouldn't affect the TC in any way.
Try to get a picture of how much I had to push it up. It broke through the steel and I will have to patch it a bit (probably just attach it to the steel underneath it).
Needless to say my shoulders and neck are tired.
Here's a pic of how much I had to persuade so far. The picture doesn't do it justice.
I have trimmed the edge of the transfer case and it should give between a quarter and a half inch of clearance.
As the shifter I got from NorthwestFab was designed for the NP203/Dana 300 they provided a universal bracket. Pretty sure it won't fit.
I have trimmed the edge of the transfer case and it should give between a quarter and a half inch of clearance.
As the shifter I got from NorthwestFab was designed for the NP203/Dana 300 they provided a universal bracket. Pretty sure it won't fit.
Don't forget to allow for movement of engine torque both in forward and reverse. It is annoying when twisted up in an obstacle and you get all your drive line noise through your floor when your t-case comes in contact with it. Or so I have heard.
How much clearance with the floor would be sufficient? I was figuring 1/4 to 1/2 inch?
How much clearance with the floor would be sufficient? I was figuring 1/4 to 1/2 inch?
Might need more than that.
You going polly mounts?
I can check mine to see what it flexes if you need.
Staying all rubber. Right now I don't think it flexes much at all (maybe with the higher gear reduction that will change??), The lo-pro transmission mount is maybe 1/2-5/8" tall compared to the stock one I would figure if there was a lot of flexing I would have heard it hitting the skid no? Right now any more massaging will involve moving the steel in the channel above. I might try this afternoon and stick it in and see since I cleaned up that little protrubance that is not necessary at the top most point how much clearance it gives me. Push comes to shove I pull out the seats and get to cutting. It will probably end up being a small box between the seat rails.
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You might not like the answer, but I'd aim for a good 1" of clearance. There's going to be a decent amount of torque twisting both boxes in low/low with the rubber mounts. It's a lot easier to just clearence it more than enough now then have to take it back out after a run or two.
I'd probably pick up some carb fuel line by the foot from Princess/CTC/anywhere as it's likely the cheapest, unless they make heater hose that small.
I'd probably pick up some carb fuel line by the foot from Princess/CTC/anywhere as it's likely the cheapest, unless they make heater hose that small.
I just run low pressure fuel line from CT to a catch can that vents (fuel filter).
I was planning on pulling the seats anyways as I wanted to tweak a portion of the console (rack my knuckles every time I release the emergency brake as it sits too close) and to protect them when patching the floor so it won't take much.
Right now my goal is to make a new bracket for the cable shifter for the 231 and a new shifter arm for the 231. The clevis I have won't fit (anyone know where you can pick them up local?)
Fuel line sounds like a great idea. Thanks to both of you.
Spent the evening fabricating a bracket for the cable shifter for the 231. Got the arm mostly done.
The shifter cables that come from NWF are 1" draw so they suggested putting a hole an 1" from the pivot point. That works but it makes it a lot more pressure needed to shift it compared to the standard 3" which the normal lever position is at. I could look for a 3" cable but around the same spot is the lo profile transmission mount. So there may be some interference with it. Wonder if I can flip it to the other side.
Still trying to find where the magic point is for the shifter cable mount should be.
The shifter cables that come from NWF are 1" draw so they suggested putting a hole an 1" from the pivot point. That works but it makes it a lot more pressure needed to shift it compared to the standard 3" which the normal lever position is at. I could look for a 3" cable but around the same spot is the lo profile transmission mount. So there may be some interference with it. Wonder if I can flip it to the other side.
Still trying to find where the magic point is for the shifter cable mount should be.
Did some further research and found this link:
http://www.sailtec.eu/pic/upload/installation_instructions_for_mechanical_push_pull_control.pdf
What I might be doing wrong is trying to figure out where the bracket goes based on full extension. This was based on my experiences with the Novak shifter which states to put the TC into 4lo and adjust there. Since the brackets are already done and placement is known that makes sense as you are just adjusting the cable for travel. According to above to determine placement the cable should be placed in the middle of the sweep and go from there.
http://www.sailtec.eu/pic/upload/installation_instructions_for_mechanical_push_pull_control.pdf
What I might be doing wrong is trying to figure out where the bracket goes based on full extension. This was based on my experiences with the Novak shifter which states to put the TC into 4lo and adjust there. Since the brackets are already done and placement is known that makes sense as you are just adjusting the cable for travel. According to above to determine placement the cable should be placed in the middle of the sweep and go from there.
I am now officially stuck.
Using a clevis I got the shifter cable lined up nicely but I can only get it to go 80% of the distance needed so either it goes to hi and neutral or neutral and low. Reason is the difference in the stroke. By default it is a 2" stroke from one side all the way to the other. The cables from NWF are 1" stroke. Their suggestion was to put a new hole about 1" from the center of the pivot point but that gets me to the 80%. Starting to brain storm and I have thoughts (including hydraulic) but I am very open to suggestions with anyone who has done anything like this.
Paging Scott
Using a clevis I got the shifter cable lined up nicely but I can only get it to go 80% of the distance needed so either it goes to hi and neutral or neutral and low. Reason is the difference in the stroke. By default it is a 2" stroke from one side all the way to the other. The cables from NWF are 1" stroke. Their suggestion was to put a new hole about 1" from the center of the pivot point but that gets me to the 80%. Starting to brain storm and I have thoughts (including hydraulic) but I am very open to suggestions with anyone who has done anything like this.
Paging Scott
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I actually have it pretty close to working. It goes about half way into each of the respective notches. I am hoping I can tweak it some more and the detent will force it the rest of the way. Also realized that when I was making the bracket I didn't take into consideration the transmission lip which gets sandwiched between the 231 and the bracket. So I needed to move it closer to the 231
UPDATE: Nope won't work using the lever at its closest point. I can't get the hole close enough to the pivot point as it will interfere with the TC housing.
Only thing I can think of is try to raise the actual lever away from the housing to allow the hole to be drilled closer so the clevis doesn't hit the TC housing
I would like to have this issue dealt with before next weekend but I am thinking I may just wait until NWF gets back to me if they can get me a 2" cable to replace it (also I wonder if 4 feet is long enough I may see if I can get 5 just to be sure). In the meantime, look at getting the 231 stuffed in there and maybe patch the floors. I could also go on the assumption it all works and get the 300 under as well to identify how it needs to be clocked. Enough stuff to do that would normally leave as I go. So June is going to be a wash.
UPDATE: Nope won't work using the lever at its closest point. I can't get the hole close enough to the pivot point as it will interfere with the TC housing.
Only thing I can think of is try to raise the actual lever away from the housing to allow the hole to be drilled closer so the clevis doesn't hit the TC housing
I would like to have this issue dealt with before next weekend but I am thinking I may just wait until NWF gets back to me if they can get me a 2" cable to replace it (also I wonder if 4 feet is long enough I may see if I can get 5 just to be sure). In the meantime, look at getting the 231 stuffed in there and maybe patch the floors. I could also go on the assumption it all works and get the 300 under as well to identify how it needs to be clocked. Enough stuff to do that would normally leave as I go. So June is going to be a wash.
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