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PROJECT - "Truck No More"
- Thread starter aweber
- Start date
In an attempt to make the truck run cooler (before just getting a better/bigger rad) I am moving the sensor to the port on the back of the head rather than the old heater core lines.
This is the port on all 5.3's - to hopefully get a more accurate reading.
I also took out the thermostat and cut the far plate down:
Before:
After:
The theory is that when the heater core circuit is blocked off, the coolant does not have a chance to get to the main valve, making the engine have to get really hot before it will open.
To finish up, I need to get one of these to adapt my sender unit to the chev 5.3 port:
http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessoriesdetail.aspx?vid=61
This is the port on all 5.3's - to hopefully get a more accurate reading.
I also took out the thermostat and cut the far plate down:
Before:
After:
The theory is that when the heater core circuit is blocked off, the coolant does not have a chance to get to the main valve, making the engine have to get really hot before it will open.
To finish up, I need to get one of these to adapt my sender unit to the chev 5.3 port:
http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessoriesdetail.aspx?vid=61
Opposite, the coolant right by the main valve does not get heated up right away with the second valve in place. They do it so that when you start your truck in the winter, you get heat coming out of the dash faster. But when the heater ports are blocked, the second valve has to open before the main one will get heated coolant. Making it open later than it should. Well documented on Pirate4x4 with LS1 KOH and other race rigs...
Going to get a new rad when I chop off the front part of the toyota frame and replace it with tube, next winter thing....
So I realized after looking at the truck that 4" of travel in the bump stops would be too much. It would be riding on the stops most of the time, so I decided to adjust the travel to 2"
Disassembled:
You can see two spacers in that picture, one is factory, the other I made.
Factory on Left, one I made on right. Just 1.5" .120 wall Tubing, cut to 2" and cleaned up on the inside.
Assembled:
Before and after:
Both done:
Disassembled:
You can see two spacers in that picture, one is factory, the other I made.
Factory on Left, one I made on right. Just 1.5" .120 wall Tubing, cut to 2" and cleaned up on the inside.
Assembled:
Before and after:
Both done:
Good work :beer:
Sweet! Good idea!
I just used a sanding drum on a air die grinder. I used HREW so had to get rid of that welded seam for it to fit. :beer:
Cut the old bump stops off and cleaned the frame. Had to cut a chunk of the old shock hoop off as well to make room, I will tie it back to the frame after. Set the truck at full bump.
Started making the mounts:
If you don't have a plasma, the next best thing is:
Started making the mounts:
If you don't have a plasma, the next best thing is:
Bump stops are done:
Charged them to 100 psi and all weekend at spring fever they worked great. You cannot even feel when they engage and no more bottoming out.
Broke my Dana 300 front output though:
Anybody have any good/bad to share about the upgrade options?
JB Conversions:
http://www.jbconversions.com/products/dana300/front_out.php
Stak:
http://www.stak4x4.com/Dana_300/d300_front_output.htm
Charged them to 100 psi and all weekend at spring fever they worked great. You cannot even feel when they engage and no more bottoming out.
Broke my Dana 300 front output though:
Anybody have any good/bad to share about the upgrade options?
JB Conversions:
http://www.jbconversions.com/products/dana300/front_out.php
Stak:
http://www.stak4x4.com/Dana_300/d300_front_output.htm
When you decide which one you are going with Adrian let me know I need to buy at least a rear output shaft, and I probably will get the 4:1 at the same time
Having second thoughts about the upgrade. Dwayne, have you ever read through this thread?
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gene...t-why-my-stak-front-output-pops-out-gear.html
Got any stock output shafts lying around you want to sell
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gene...t-why-my-stak-front-output-pops-out-gear.html
Got any stock output shafts lying around you want to sell
Hmmmm yeah that is interesting, when I talked to JB last year she said she only recommended the front output shaft if you had big tires (I think she said 44 and bigger) and big horsepower, so I was just going to order the rear shaft and the reason I hadn't already was because it was supposed to be a Christmas present but they had the 4:1's in stock but no rear output shafts.
Now she also didn't say anything about the effect of copious amounts of alcohol, you might want to phone and ask what there policy dictates on that :flipoff:
Now she also didn't say anything about the effect of copious amounts of alcohol, you might want to phone and ask what there policy dictates on that :flipoff:
Not reading through entire threads does not get any conclusions :stir:
Still not sure though the ultimate conclusion there either