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Dirk
Guest
Hehe it does.
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Dirk
Guest
A bit a carnage from last Sundays run at The Gorge....
Attempted a climb and snapped something in the rea diff. Pulled the axle appart that evening and it turned out to be the pinion shaft that broke.
But.....the carrier cracked and deformed to the point that I could not remove the ring gear. So I cut the carrier:
those 2 little stubs are all thats left of the shaft.
Sofar so good. Then I looked at my locker...
issed:
Both "whatever-they-are-called" gears are ruined and one of the spring pins is broken in half. I won't be reusing them, not are there funds for replacements. Planning to weld another carrier tonight, unless someone has a used toy 8" spool for sale.
Will also contact Aussie Locker to see if they'd warranty the damage.....
Attempted a climb and snapped something in the rea diff. Pulled the axle appart that evening and it turned out to be the pinion shaft that broke.
But.....the carrier cracked and deformed to the point that I could not remove the ring gear. So I cut the carrier:
those 2 little stubs are all thats left of the shaft.
Sofar so good. Then I looked at my locker...
issed:
Both "whatever-they-are-called" gears are ruined and one of the spring pins is broken in half. I won't be reusing them, not are there funds for replacements. Planning to weld another carrier tonight, unless someone has a used toy 8" spool for sale.
Will also contact Aussie Locker to see if they'd warranty the damage.....
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Louis
Guest
Damn - that's too bad. Ever consider an ARB locker or a bigger rear diff? Maybe a landcruiser 70 series full floater.
Louis
Louis
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Dirk
Guest
For the time being I'll weld it up. But depending on future breakage maybe I'll have to upgrade. Not sure which way I'd go if i do upgrade. Not familiar with the particulars of the Cruiser axles. I assume they are 6 bolt....if so would be worth looking at.
Spoke to Aussie already. I will need 2 new cam gears (thats what they are called), they are checking inventory and will get back to me. Good service sofar, as I called at 5pm exactly (their closing time) and they answered the phone and then had a tech call me back. But this is ofcourse not covered under warranty so I'd have to buy 2 new gears.
Spoke to Aussie already. I will need 2 new cam gears (thats what they are called), they are checking inventory and will get back to me. Good service sofar, as I called at 5pm exactly (their closing time) and they answered the phone and then had a tech call me back. But this is ofcourse not covered under warranty so I'd have to buy 2 new gears.
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Louis
Guest
The 70 series rear diff is a 9.5 inch and very strong, and yes it is 6 bolt and a full floater so you don't have to worry about axles snapping and losing a wheel. Lots of options for lockers, the arb carrier is strong and will/should not fail - the axle will fail first even if it's a longfield. But, with only 68 HP you will most likely never break a cruiser diff or axle. I am pretty sure it would be a good fit and probably not much wider - no need for spacers probably.
The 40 series would be ok as well but it isn't a full floater - and the 70 series have better brakes - which would also be better for you.
Louis
The 40 series would be ok as well but it isn't a full floater - and the 70 series have better brakes - which would also be better for you.
Louis
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Dirk
Guest
Cool.
I never expected to break the diff with the power I have available. Maybe its a fluke, maybe not. The shaft may have been weak...who knows. Upgrading the axle was never in my plans, but if need be i would definitely go with a full floating axle. Brakes are not an issue as I run rear disks and they.
If anyone has a Cruiser diff laying around, i would like to take some measurements though.
I never expected to break the diff with the power I have available. Maybe its a fluke, maybe not. The shaft may have been weak...who knows. Upgrading the axle was never in my plans, but if need be i would definitely go with a full floating axle. Brakes are not an issue as I run rear disks and they.
If anyone has a Cruiser diff laying around, i would like to take some measurements though.
Welcome to 38's and toy axles. Go to v6 carriers. My rear V6 E-locker has gone 3 years at 200 HP with no Issues. If I was going to keep the Toy axles, I would put a hi-pinion V6 third in the front.
That being said, I am not going to mess around with the Toy stuff for much longer. D60's are the next step.:beer::beer:
That being said, I am not going to mess around with the Toy stuff for much longer. D60's are the next step.:beer::beer:
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Dirk
Guest
rear perches
I noticed a while ago that my rear pinion angle was getting worse. It started off properly, then it was 0 degrees, pinion shaft and driveshaft were inline. Then the pinion kept rotating upwards until it was about 5 - 6 degrees the opposite way.
Looking at my rear springs, its it plain to see that they are bent in front of the axle ...from gentle use.... which allowed the axle to rotate upwards, causing the pinion angle to change.
I knew I should have done something about it, but i went wheeling instead and ... broke the u-joint trying to climb a 30" vertical rock.
So I tore into it today and ground the welds holding the perches and noticed something peculiar. The perches were digging into the axle housing, crushing it.
Over a 1/4" intenation
The axle appears straight otherwise, only crushed in the perch area.
Since I don't have another '86 or newer axle to swap in, I'll keep running it.
I plan to cut a section off another axle tube, split it lengthwise and use a half in each of the damaged areas to reinforce it.
Has anyone had this happend ever?
and before I forget...important safety tip...don't trust your jackstands on your gravel/clay driveway. :flipoff:
good thing I own a tractor with a loader.
I noticed a while ago that my rear pinion angle was getting worse. It started off properly, then it was 0 degrees, pinion shaft and driveshaft were inline. Then the pinion kept rotating upwards until it was about 5 - 6 degrees the opposite way.
Looking at my rear springs, its it plain to see that they are bent in front of the axle ...from gentle use.... which allowed the axle to rotate upwards, causing the pinion angle to change.
I knew I should have done something about it, but i went wheeling instead and ... broke the u-joint trying to climb a 30" vertical rock.
So I tore into it today and ground the welds holding the perches and noticed something peculiar. The perches were digging into the axle housing, crushing it.
Over a 1/4" intenation
The axle appears straight otherwise, only crushed in the perch area.
Since I don't have another '86 or newer axle to swap in, I'll keep running it.
I plan to cut a section off another axle tube, split it lengthwise and use a half in each of the damaged areas to reinforce it.
Has anyone had this happend ever?
and before I forget...important safety tip...don't trust your jackstands on your gravel/clay driveway. :flipoff:
good thing I own a tractor with a loader.
Farm Boy
Bought the Farm
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Dirk
Guest
REplaced a lost driveshaft flange bolt at the rear t-case output and noticed this:
cracked T-case mount.
another shot
just as well I didnt take it out yesterday...this may not have made it out in one piece.
Guess its coming apart next time I'm home.
cracked T-case mount.
another shot
just as well I didnt take it out yesterday...this may not have made it out in one piece.
Guess its coming apart next time I'm home.
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Ouch! That sucks! You gunna build a new stronger mount then or re weld yours and plate it?
That's a FROR mount right? The general consensus seems to be that they fail because of forwards and backwards movement. (motor mounts)
I had the previous 7M ones chained and now on the 5.3 they are essentially solid and I have not had any issues yet.
Looks like you need to go through with solid mounting your motor mounts like you said at the social :beer:
I had the previous 7M ones chained and now on the 5.3 they are essentially solid and I have not had any issues yet.
Looks like you need to go through with solid mounting your motor mounts like you said at the social :beer:
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Dirk
Guest
Looking ahead to spring fever and a trip home, in 2 months, it's time order some parts and fixes.
Took care of windshield wiper when I was home at Xmas, so no more sticking my hand out the window holding the wiper and cleaning the window manually.
Since my time is limited, planning to fly out a few days prior to the long weekend, my list is short.
Battery disconnect, switch already bought, just needs installation.
Solid motor mounts and properly repairing the cross member.
Replace both winch cables with rope. Deciding between Viking line ( trail gear) and masterpull. Huge difference in cost. Discussion, pro/con, experiences, theories....
Onboard air, via air 100% duty cycle.
And new tire/rim combo possibly again.
Took care of windshield wiper when I was home at Xmas, so no more sticking my hand out the window holding the wiper and cleaning the window manually.
Since my time is limited, planning to fly out a few days prior to the long weekend, my list is short.
Battery disconnect, switch already bought, just needs installation.
Solid motor mounts and properly repairing the cross member.
Replace both winch cables with rope. Deciding between Viking line ( trail gear) and masterpull. Huge difference in cost. Discussion, pro/con, experiences, theories....
Onboard air, via air 100% duty cycle.
And new tire/rim combo possibly again.
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Dirk
Guest
Thx Adrian, Viking is way cheaper and no border crossing involved.
Tires.... Well I think I am ready for some good rubber and beadlocks.
This rig has seen 5 sets of boots already. So I am looking for a final solution.
I also want to go a bit smaller to reduce rubbing and get some drivability back, 37 should be about right.
For bead locks I want alloy wheels.
So I am thinking 37" Krawlers on TG Creeper Locks.
All depending on how much overtime I can get in.
Tires.... Well I think I am ready for some good rubber and beadlocks.
This rig has seen 5 sets of boots already. So I am looking for a final solution.
I also want to go a bit smaller to reduce rubbing and get some drivability back, 37 should be about right.
For bead locks I want alloy wheels.
So I am thinking 37" Krawlers on TG Creeper Locks.
All depending on how much overtime I can get in.
Cochise
Well-known member
Any idea if you're going with Dyneema or Technora? Don't know if that matters to you or not.
Here a quote from a supplier on Pirate:
See here:
http://www.jeepswag.com/winchrope/index.html
This guy's prices are cheap, too.
http://www.jeepswag.com/winchline/index.html#TWL
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