Yello

Kunker

Kunker

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O.D. said:
If i recall, treps are not DOT (Comp)

The non-comp version is less aggressive than the Crawlers IMO.

If the Trep Comps were DOT, i would have went with them.
Click to expand...

True, although running a comp tire on the street would likely kill it in short order. The radials are a much shallower tread pattern. I am very curious how they work for you locally as my choices for 37's (if/when that happens) are the PBR's (which apparently measure quite short) or the Creepies. I'd love a set of Treps, but I'm not looking for a set of 17's just to run them.
 
O

O.D.

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Update!!!


Got the rear fenders cut out to match the armour.





Then started to look at the rear suspension... It appears i may have some clearance issues with the stance i want to go with... :(





The UCA's are basically smashing the floor underside after about an inch of uptravel. I have confirmed that i do need a 1" body lift to clear the ATLAS if i do not want to cut open the tunnel. That will help a bit.

With the LCA's, they hit the frame rail undersides... The clayton brackets mount the LCA's directly under the frame rails... Was looking at the TMR brackets and they seem to mount the LCA's inboard of the frame rails, which would really help. So I'll be calling the tomorrow.....
 
Loco

Loco

I'd wheel it
What about some kind of bend in the UCAs. You'd have to lengthen them slightly but it could solve the clearance issue. Just a thought.
 
O

O.D.

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Thanks all for the suggestions. I am going to lower that truss down to as close to the diff as i can. That should net me about an extra 1" or so. I am going to pivot the LCA mounts on the axle downward. While that will mess with clearance, it will give me more clearance on the frame rails. I am going to look into changing up the 4-link brackets at the frame to a set that has the LCA mount inboard of the frame. http://www.tmrcustoms.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22_62&products_id=87 Currently, the brackets i have (Clayton) have the LCA bracket on the 4-link setup directly under the frame rail.
 
I

Impact

Well-known member
That poison spider stuff looks good!

Quit beating around the bush already and just back half it... :stir:
 
mucovich

mucovich

Till Valhalla!
We just 4 linked JP's TJ and we cut the rear frame off and just tubed it to allow for clearancing and room for the coilovers - it just makes everything easy.
 
O

O.D.

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I had a back halfed frame. It was setup with the BTF kit :). But when i bought it, i didn't completely think it through...

1 - It had a 7" stretch on it so i would have had to move all the rear brackets around..
2 - Because it was backhalfed, i had little options for the gas tank. I do not want a tank in the tub so I would have had to find some kind of custom tank that would still fit between the rails. That would have left me with a small tank and it would have been $$$ me thinks :) When i found a buyer that was very interested in it, i decided to forego the frame with little loss and just do all the work on the existing frame.

I want this to be streetable and i think i would be hard pressed to keep this aspect if i start tubing the frame :)


Couple of updates:

HEMI finally sat between the rails for the first time :)



 
Last edited:
O

O.D.

Well-known member
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Bit of an update..

I set everything in place on the rear. From what i can see, i have about 5" up on the rear and about 5-6" up on the front PROVIDED i run a remote oil filter. Steering is going to be TIIIIEEEIGHT!!. I May still cut the LCA mounts off and point them down moreso, thus increasing the gap between the LCA's and the Frame underside. I have the room in the fenders.


I set the Motor/Tranny/TC in place and that all lined up nicely.

After test setting the tub, it was obvious i was going to need a BL.. Installed the 1" BL and STILL could not clear the ATLAS. So, in a moment of stupor i cut into the tub floor!

It fits now.


I also made a quick dash down to Ogdensburg this evening.. Finally got my ORI's.. Exactly 11 weeks backordered Holy smokes they are HUGE!!!!

I was wondering if anyone knew the best angle to mount them?

For the fronts, Do i mount them:
- straight up?
- slight pitch to the back
- Do i pitch them inwards or outwards towards the top?

For the rears, i typically see them pitch back towards the top. Are there any hard numbers on how to set them up?....

Front's will be mounted on hoops and the rears will be mounted on towers frenched into the frame...

I pulled this off Pirates and was wondering how accurate it was:

"Ideally as far apart, and close to vertical as possible is how you want to mount them. Some will say that you want them perpendicular to the links when the suspension is at ride height, this is more-so the case when you have really steep link angles."




 
mucovich

mucovich

Till Valhalla!
I've read multiple times that you "should" try to mount them 5 to 10deg toward center of vehicle and 5 to 10deg angled forward (rear) or back (front), 5 - 10 being the sweet spot (at ride height) so that is what I went by on mine. I don't think mounting them straight up and down would be advisable - 99% of the builds I checked out mount them on angles.
 
aweber

aweber

This thread is :rainbow:
Staff member
Club Member
I'd rather cut into the tub to keep the center of gravity low, good choice :beer:
 
mucovich

mucovich

Till Valhalla!
Just pulled this off of ORI's site...

"Mount struts to vehicle at desired angle, 50º maximum from the vertical position."

I guess that leaves it wide open for mounting options!
 
O

O.D.

Well-known member
Club Member
Thanks Guys... I have seen all sorts of info like:


- Min 4" shaft showing
- Perpendicular to the LCA's
- As far apart as possible
- As vertical as possible (Which contradicts the perpendicular suggestion)


I have some shop time aligned for tomorrow so my first task will be to read all the literature :)


I also got a fill charge kit. Guess i have allot of reading to do as i have no idea how all this oil / nitrogen all works!!!
 
O

O.D.

Well-known member
Club Member
So.. No pics right now..

I am dealing with clearance issues..

I cut out the lca axle brackets that were there on the rear and replaced them with 0 degree tmr brackets. When i tacked them in, i turned them down to about 35 degrees. I threaded out my lca's to compensate and that made a huge difference!!!! In essence i have about 8" of uptravel now and the tire fits right into the wheel well :)

So, with that done i then started in on the ori mounts. What i quickly realized though was that due to the fact that this is a CC 14 bolt, i just dont have the clearance on the calipers for the oris... It appears i can get the upper shock towers in there, once they are frenched into the frame. For the lower shock mounts, the towers came with mounts tha jut out from the rear of the axle tubes, which will help with clearance, but no luck on the calipers..

I have seen some articles on moving th calipers to the front of the axle... Has anyone done this? How does that work? Do i have to reverse them? Wont the bleed now be on top?

Regardless, i will have to get new caliper brackets as the ones on there now are welded on as opposed to bolted to that square flange..


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Kunker

Kunker

Administrator
Club Member
You want the bleed screw to be on the top so that any air in the caliper will bleed out easily. You can move them to the front or rear of the axles, doesn't really matter, so long as the bleed screw is on the high side.
 
O

O.D.

Well-known member
Club Member
Freudean slip... Meant to say on bottom... But it does change if you take a ds caliper on the back and then mount it on the front of the axle, the bleed will then be on the bottom.

For anyone who's actually done this, do you flip ds to ps on the calipers to ensure the bleed stays on top?



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