231/Dana 300 Doubler Build

2

2Greys

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It's a pricey option but since the alternative is lengthening the wheelbase i figure it is a wash in price.
Here is a question, I was figuring i would be doing a crossmember behind the Dana 300 and would pick up the kit from TMR. The question is do i need to keep the existing mount? The transmission on the TJ normally mounts to the TC skid plate.
 
Kunker

Kunker

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I'd also suggest keeping both in the same place - ie. if one is center mounted on the t-case skid, keep both in the same spot rather than putting the bushings for the second mount at the frame (as an example).
 
dwcjwerfner

dwcjwerfner

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Not so sure about that Kevin, their mount for the D300 or an Atlas are usually made to mount to a tube "crossmember" between the frame. So long as you keep the mounts in the same plane. So that they twist together and not seperately.
 
Kunker

Kunker

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Perhaps I'm not being super clear - you want the mounts the same distance from the central axis so that the mounts would deflect the same amount based on the leverage. Ie. if you had mounts out by the frame rails on one case, and in the middle (like a trans mount) under the other, you would be putting all of the twist stress on the mounts at the frame. See here:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gene...930-help-breaking-transfer-case-adapters.html

Make sense?
 
2

2Greys

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Kind of. So you are saying essentially I need a secondary crossmember to sit under the transmission mount that goes to the frame?
Although reading that thread, it seems like tripod mounting is the way to go.
 
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2

2Greys

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Thinking about it i am not sure if I can put a crossmember across the front. With the Dana 300 and the 231the front yoke is pushed back a smidge. the front driveshaft may end up banging against the front crossmember at full droop. With it moving back i may have to trim into the skidplate
 
J

junkpile

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He's just suggesting that the rubber or poly bushing(s), (for your additional crossmember behind your 300) be in the middle of the crossmember like your current tranny mount is so as to avoid stress breakage like that shown in the above link.
 
2

2Greys

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Ah thanks I was reading to much into it
I was figuring I was going to get the TMR Dana 300 flipped, (I like how it mounts to the output). however it has only poly bushings, I need rubber. I just emailed them to see if they can source rubber bushings instead. I am sure I can find them elsewhere if not.
Any suggestions on how to do the crossmember? Should I be permanently fixing it to the frame rails? I was thinking having it removable but not sure what would be adequate for the job.

One thing I just thought of was how the mount will handle being clocked. Will need to discuss with them
 
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Kunker

Kunker

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2Greys said:
Ah thanks I was reading to much into it
I was figuring I was going to get the TMR Dana 300 flipped, (I like how it mounts to the output). however it has only poly bushings, I need rubber. I just emailed them to see if they can source rubber bushings instead. I am sure I can find them elsewhere if not.
Any suggestions on how to do the crossmember? Should I be permanently fixing it to the frame rails? I was thinking having it removable but not sure what would be adequate for the job.

One thing I just thought of was how the mount will handle being clocked. Will need to discuss with them
Click to expand...

I'd make it removable similar to Richard's, just some simple tabs to bolt the crossmember to.
 
2

2Greys

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I have heard on JF some people who have done the doubler and other than running the stock mount had it ok. That said it doesn't mean it will last. Although doubled it is only a bit longer, it feels a lot heavier. Looking at yours is probably what I will end up doing although mine I will probably be running the mount right under the rear output instead while keeping the stock mount. Course this is all on the assumption that it will fit with the TT. I am hoping to god I don't need to move away from the Tummy Tuck.
Do you recall what the mount is made up of? I am looking specifically for the bar dimensions, the bolts and the brackets on the frame.
EDIT: Found where you mention it in your build:
http://ovo.ca/delormer/jeepmods/tyj/tyj8.htm

Also do you recall where you got the parts for your sight tube?
 
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Richard

Richard

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The sight tube uses standard 1/4" pipe plumbing parts. I can't recall what the hose is, it's probably just generic vinyl again from the plumbing section.
 
dwcjwerfner

dwcjwerfner

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Doubler only adds about 30lbs I think. It is the extra torque that makes a second mount good insurance. Then again you are not going to be running 36" tires and beating the poop out of it like I did.
 
I

Impact

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How much is the output shaft costing you? Direct from Novak?

Have you started looking at shift rail seals? Any concerns with it leaking since the shifters are flipped?

Any plans on running a park brake off the t-case?
 
2

2Greys

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I am getting it straight from Novak as well as a new cover. Read that since the cover is more rigid it helps with reinforcing the case. I replaced the old seals with new ones which is supposed to help with leaking. Alternatively you can get double seals.
Parking brakes work well right now so not really looking at it yet.
 
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