July 9th?!... Oh boy. I would have given up on them at this point...
Do you have a part number for the double seals?
It's nice to see you making progress on this setup!
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231/Dana 300 Doubler Build
- Thread starter 2Greys
- Start date
July 9th?!... Oh boy. I would have given up on them at this point...
Do you have a part number for the double seals?
It's nice to see you making progress on this setup!
SKF CR6204 (supposedly)
http://www.veritassupply.com/eaglepdsynchronousbeltsprocket-b-30s-mpb-1924.aspx
but I have also heard of people just doubling up the stock ones
I figured I would just try with new seals and if I get any leakage, I would cross that bridge when I got to it.
With the Tummy Tuck I am trying to minimize on the potential cutting and suspect I will be doing some massaging of the tub underneath to get it to fit. It will be so tight under there I need to do cable shifters and from what I have read NWFs are pretty much the best ones out there. He has everything except for the cables. He said they were supposed to ship out to him last week. Thing is I won't be starting the transplant until probably after Spring Break so I really am in no rush But I still bug him every other week >
Mostly right now has been starting to fab up a new center console but I will have to wait until I get the shifters for that portion. The big challenge though will be cup holders
http://www.veritassupply.com/eaglepdsynchronousbeltsprocket-b-30s-mpb-1924.aspx
but I have also heard of people just doubling up the stock ones
I figured I would just try with new seals and if I get any leakage, I would cross that bridge when I got to it.
With the Tummy Tuck I am trying to minimize on the potential cutting and suspect I will be doing some massaging of the tub underneath to get it to fit. It will be so tight under there I need to do cable shifters and from what I have read NWFs are pretty much the best ones out there. He has everything except for the cables. He said they were supposed to ship out to him last week. Thing is I won't be starting the transplant until probably after Spring Break so I really am in no rush But I still bug him every other week >
Mostly right now has been starting to fab up a new center console but I will have to wait until I get the shifters for that portion. The big challenge though will be cup holders
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Nothing as exciting as Marek's but I had a little progress on building the console
Once covered in a skin it will look a lot better. It fits well around the emergency brake bracketry. You may notice that little piece patched on the side. Reason for that is the console has an attachment point to said bracketry there but I wanted to keep it tight against it so I cut that little piece out and then used a piece of what I will be using for the skin.
Novak should be getting the rear output in about a week or two and shipping shortly after. Emailed NWF about my shifters on Friday but haven't heard anything. Will be calling him tomorrow. Yeah I am a pain but almost 5 months is getting near ridiculous. If I hadn't heard such good things about them and if I had an alternative I would probably have gone elsewhere.
Once covered in a skin it will look a lot better. It fits well around the emergency brake bracketry. You may notice that little piece patched on the side. Reason for that is the console has an attachment point to said bracketry there but I wanted to keep it tight against it so I cut that little piece out and then used a piece of what I will be using for the skin.
Novak should be getting the rear output in about a week or two and shipping shortly after. Emailed NWF about my shifters on Friday but haven't heard anything. Will be calling him tomorrow. Yeah I am a pain but almost 5 months is getting near ridiculous. If I hadn't heard such good things about them and if I had an alternative I would probably have gone elsewhere.
R
ROUGHcrawl
Guest
I wanna see the beef console finished so I have some inspiration for my dual case shifter mess lol
Started working on the passenger side of the console. I dropped the insert portion and lined it up. Basically I have broken it up into two sections which is the front and back, the back is done minus the skin. The driver side will be waiting for the shifters to arrive to get an idea of how the console will be shaped. I am hoping that i can place them over where the existing shifter is located. My concern right now is how tall the actual shifters and if there is any interference. The placement of the transmission shifter and the emergency brake makes it tight between.
Unlike the plastic stock one, when it is all attached together I will need to pull the passenger seat out to do placement.
We shall see...
Unlike the plastic stock one, when it is all attached together I will need to pull the passenger seat out to do placement.
We shall see...
I hadn't thought about the removable tube clamps, do they feel that it would be strong enough for that?
He was the one who suggested it so I would assume so. I figure mounting them perpendicular to each other should make them more rigid?
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Baja
Well-known member
My thoughts exactly. Why not tube flanges. Then you two bolts holding it.
Or solid mount tcase to tube and then poly or rubber between the crossmember and frame. This way you would actually have the bolts in double shear.
Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk
Just to confirm he is talking about these:
http://www.tmrcustoms.com/store/ind...d=2078&zenid=45d973d1f871a484c9a70fbb5845f886
That said tube flanges (which I believe you are talking about are these: http://www.tmrcustoms.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=31&products_id=65)
are a hella cheaper.
We talked about the solid mounting the case to the tube earlier when Kevin brought it up. I guess since my transmission mount is in the middle under the transmission, putting the flex points at the frame would cause the flexing between the transmission and the transfer cases to put more stress in between and potentially cause breakage.
mucovich
Till Valhalla!
I'm doing the same thing JP did for his and what Scott suggested - DOM crossmember with poly bushings on each end secured to the chassis with some tabs - I am planning on using a poly transmission mount between the transmission and crossmember too - my motor mounts will be poly bushing as well (so is the ATLAS mount) so that they'll all be the same.
That would be the simplest way which TMR sells with their universal crossmember where you have the flexible parts attached to the frame directly which was also my original idea until Kevin scared me (needless to say I am blaming this all on Kevin)
I AM ALL CONFUSED NOW!!! STUPID CHOICES!!
Regarding the mixing of rubber and poly I read that when you mix the motor mounts and transmission mount it isn't good but if it is motor mount, transmission mount and then poly at the back then it is not as bad. That said I prefer rubber so if it seems bad then I will be looking for the rubber equivalent which I think I came across at one point.
Plus there is a lot of time to figure out what I am going to do. I won't be buying that stuff until at least Feb.
I AM ALL CONFUSED NOW!!! STUPID CHOICES!!
Regarding the mixing of rubber and poly I read that when you mix the motor mounts and transmission mount it isn't good but if it is motor mount, transmission mount and then poly at the back then it is not as bad. That said I prefer rubber so if it seems bad then I will be looking for the rubber equivalent which I think I came across at one point.
Plus there is a lot of time to figure out what I am going to do. I won't be buying that stuff until at least Feb.
Yes and what do you mean same axis? I understood that as that they were in line with each other, IOW if the flexible part of the stock Transmission mount was in the middle then so should the TC, if it was up against the frame then ditto with the TC.
So am I completely missing something?
mucovich
Till Valhalla!
It should be the motor mounts that control the torsional load and not the trans mount. The best way to mount the trans is with a poly mount close to the pivot point of the drivetrain so the engine block is controlling the twist, not the aluminum trans case. The support ring on the T case (which I use and think they are a really good idea) should really only support the weight as not to put undue stress on the tranny tail housing.
I pulled this quote off Pirate...
"If you mounted the engine bushings 18" apart, and the transmission bushings 18" apart they would all be controlling the same amount of rotational force. The engine block is going to be a lot stronger than the transmission tail housing so you should control the twisting with the engine mounts. The trans mount only needs to support the weight of the trans/t-case. Most of the time people are breaking the trans because of the weight of the t-case hanging off the back, especially with doublers. Support rings also seem to be pretty effective."
I pulled this quote off Pirate...
"If you mounted the engine bushings 18" apart, and the transmission bushings 18" apart they would all be controlling the same amount of rotational force. The engine block is going to be a lot stronger than the transmission tail housing so you should control the twisting with the engine mounts. The trans mount only needs to support the weight of the trans/t-case. Most of the time people are breaking the trans because of the weight of the t-case hanging off the back, especially with doublers. Support rings also seem to be pretty effective."