231/Dana 300 Doubler Build

2

2Greys

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Reading the quote from Pirate I read it as to use the hard mounted bar across with the only poly mount that is right below the TC output while what Scott is saying is put the mounts at the frame.
Some reason I am not getting this... need coffee..

Basically I have 3 ways of doing this
1. Hard mounted dom all the way across with Dana 300 flipped mount with a poly bushing in the middle under the TC Mount
2. Hard mounted dom all the way across with just support ring with a poly bushing in the middle under the TC Mount
3. Dom with bushings at the frame with no bushing in the middle (iow mount directly welded to the crossmember) and some kind of attachment to the TC output.

You guys are recommending #3 correct?
 
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aweber

aweber

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I have poly mounts at the motor and at the d300.

This is my cross member, it is based off the FROR Toyota ones that have always been real strong, I just drew up the same thing in CAD for the D300. NO issues so far with 350HP ;)



As you can tell, It captures all the bolts on the back of the case.
 
Kunker

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mucovich said:
It should be the motor mounts that control the torsional load and not the trans mount. The best way to mount the trans is with a poly mount close to the pivot point of the drivetrain so the engine block is controlling the twist, not the aluminum trans case. The support ring on the T case (which I use and think they are a really good idea) should really only support the weight as not to put undue stress on the tranny tail housing.

I pulled this quote off Pirate...

"If you mounted the engine bushings 18" apart, and the transmission bushings 18" apart they would all be controlling the same amount of rotational force. The engine block is going to be a lot stronger than the transmission tail housing so you should control the twisting with the engine mounts. The trans mount only needs to support the weight of the trans/t-case. Most of the time people are breaking the trans because of the weight of the t-case hanging off the back, especially with doublers. Support rings also seem to be pretty effective."
Click to expand...

Thanks Marek, that's where I was going with my original comments - apparently my google-fu at finding the right quote isn't as good as yours.
 
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2Greys

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aweber said:
I have poly mounts at the motor and at the d300.

This is my cross member, it is based off the FROR Toyota ones that have always been real strong, I just drew up the same thing in CAD for the D300. NO issues so far with 350HP ;)



As you can tell, It captures all the bolts on the back of the case.
Click to expand...

So it seems the consensus is no bushing from the TC to the dom and then have the bushings at the frame
 
2

2Greys

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Got the new shifters (about fucking time! but I am still waiting for the cables), it's going to be tight on the driver side for sure. I have to decide if I am going to mount directly to the tunnel or part of the console. I am leaning towards the former but it means cutting into the tub. The good news with this is that it means the console will be independent of the shifters and can be done separately so I can finish it put it back in and then deal with the shifters in the spring. Very pretty though.

 
J

junkpile

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2Greys said:
So it seems the consensus is no bushing from the TC to the dom and then have the bushings at the frame
Click to expand...

If you do this be sure to use a support ring that that will transfer the torsional load around the whole case as shown in the picture. Otherwise you are still better off to have a flexible point (rubber or poly whatever your current engine and tranny mounts are) between the Tcase and the crossmember. You can also have bushings at the frame ends as well if you want to build it that way.

Example:

2 engine mounts
1 tranny mount
1 mount to support doubler weight
Or
2 engine mounts
1 tranny mount
1 support ring with mounts at frame ends
 
2

2Greys

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Marek and I talked about it at the last meeting and it will probably end up being:
TMR flipped Dana 300 ring with mount to a piece of DOM welded to the frame.

I will need to source new rubber mounts to replace the poly ones since the rest of mine are poly (although I have read that this one is less critical than the Transmission mount to be matching)

I haven't decided between the ID Tube Clamps or just tube flanges which both of TMR carries. The Tube flanges are a lot cheaper but I think the crossmember will be sitting inside where my skid is and will need as much clearance as I can get.


junkpile said:
If you do this be sure to use a support ring that that will transfer the torsional load around the whole case as shown in the picture. Otherwise you are still better off to have a flexible point (rubber or poly whatever your current engine and tranny mounts are) between the Tcase and the crossmember. You can also have bushings at the frame ends as well if you want to build it that way.

Example:

2 engine mounts
1 tranny mount
1 mount to support doubler weight
Or
2 engine mounts
1 tranny mount
1 support ring with mounts at frame ends
Click to expand...
 
O

O.D.

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Here's what i had on mine:

Poly engine mounts.
TMR Tranny mount (Which has poly bushings on the ends of the crossmember) tied to tabs welded to the frame
TMR Atlas mount (Which has a poly bushing) welded to a crossmember that i bent up to fit around shit, welded directly to the frame.


So i have poly bushings at:

- Engine mounts
- Crossmember to frame
- Atlas ring to crossmember



I wanted to do poly bushings on the TC crossmember at the frame but i felt the bushing under the TC ring should be enough.
 
2

2Greys

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Thanks Tim, Essentially it sounds like I will be doing something similar.
I may look at the TMR Atlas Mount as well as it is supposed to fit the Dana 300 but since I am doing a Novak Output I have to wait until I get it and rumour is in a couple weeks it should be ready. Talked to Novak this morning and they said they were waiting on the flanges at this point
 
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2Greys

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To be honest yes. Everything that has happened has been out of his control. He also has been giving me ideas on how to make it fit.
 
I

Impact

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How much did the shifters end up running you?

If I ever get around to bolting in my 231/300 then I'll need to start figuring out what shifter setup to go with.
 
2

2Greys

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$399 I also ordered a clocking ring on top of that.
Basically his prices start at $199 and go $100 up per shifter. Pricey yes, but with the tummy tuck I need to do cable shifters as everything is tucked in tight and the other selection was JB Custom Fab and the shifting mechanism is too tall but they are also a completely different design
 
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2Greys

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Been sick for the last two weeks so haven't even looked at it.
Nothing exciting but today I more or less decided I will be mounting the shifters flush to the tunnel which means modifying the tunnel. I think it will be the best for clearance with the dash. The shifters will be laid out from driver to passenger:
Rear out Front out Doubler
This means by default the farthest driver will always be forward unless it is in 4lo which odds are means the drivers seat will be farthest back since Anne only drives it rarely and never uses 4lo. Even then I am pretty sure that she will be able to put it in 4 lo.

Reasoning for in the tunnel was:
- to deal with the cables going through the tub if I mounted it to the console would be a pain
- this separates the console from the shifters so I just need to build the console around the outline of the shifter bracket and it should be good

I had more or less done the passenger side of the console (may modify it a bit though) but now have most of the measurements for the driver side.
 
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2Greys

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Got an update from NorthWest Fabs, he just got a tracking number from the manufacturer of the cables. He had put in an order of 100 cables and it has taken them 4 months. They claim they are swamped but he doesn't believe it and thinks it is more of a management issue but to change manufacturers the price would skyrocket. He figures early January at this point with the holidays and all that.

Now to find out about the Novak...
I think other than those the only things outstanding are:
2x clamps from TMR (not sure which ones to get suggestions?)
Dana 300 flipped bracket http://www.tmrcustoms.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=106&products_id=716
DOM tubing for said crossmember
Speedohealer as the Novak output changes from a mechanical cog to a 3 wire sensor: http://www.xtsportbikeaccessories.com/SpeedoHealer_HealTech.html

With the warm weather coming I may look at going out in the garage and working on the console.
 
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