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PROJECT - "Truck No More"
- Thread starter aweber
- Start date
So the thermostat housing angle was not working for me. Rather than spend the $100 on the swivel billet housing, I stole this idea from a LS Porsche engine swap. Rotated the housing and made little clamps to hold it tight rather than using the stock bolt holes:
It seems to have worked great so far. Rad hoses are hooked up, fan is hooked up. It took a bit over 8L of coolant - about double the old rad. It seems to be staying right below 180 Deg right now.
It seems to have worked great so far. Rad hoses are hooked up, fan is hooked up. It took a bit over 8L of coolant - about double the old rad. It seems to be staying right below 180 Deg right now.
Now that is a cool idea! I'll have to remember that one.
Nice fit!
Nice fit!
You can't put stuff on backwards. You're crazy
Driveshaft is rebuilt:
For those interested in rebuilding a Toy IFS CV front shaft at some time, parts required are:
CV Centering Ball - Precision #614 fits the CV w/3.070" H yoke u-joint center and .513" ball
U-Joints - 2 x Spicer 1-5800 - Which crosses to a Precision Part # that is half the price.
Also, Had to move my air filter - The upper rad hose is in the way now.
It's pretty getto but in the future I plan to flip the intake 180 Deg and put the filter in the cab of the truck, no time before spring fever.
For those interested in rebuilding a Toy IFS CV front shaft at some time, parts required are:
CV Centering Ball - Precision #614 fits the CV w/3.070" H yoke u-joint center and .513" ball
U-Joints - 2 x Spicer 1-5800 - Which crosses to a Precision Part # that is half the price.
Also, Had to move my air filter - The upper rad hose is in the way now.
It's pretty getto but in the future I plan to flip the intake 180 Deg and put the filter in the cab of the truck, no time before spring fever.
Ahhh, now I understand ghetto :flipoff:
Got the exhaust all buttoned up and went for a drive. It stayed around 190 Deg the whole time and the exhaust sounds completely different that it used to. Pretty much exactly what I was looking for. ~70DB at Idle, nice and deep at cruising speed and nice and loud when I get into it. :beer: Now just to rebuild one of the rear links and I am ready for spring fever!
Were the clunking when worn that much? Not criticizing just wondering because I only replace my heims when I can't stand the noise any more. 
Were the clunking when worn that much? Not criticizing just wondering because I only replace my heims when I can't stand the noise any more.
Worn to the point that I could not tighten them enough to get rid of the clunking anymore. bugs the shit out of me when the suspension is not tight
Driveshaft is rebuilt:
For those interested in rebuilding a Toy IFS CV front shaft at some time, parts required are:
CV Centering Ball - Precision #614 fits the CV w/3.070" H yoke u-joint center and .513" ball
U-Joints - 2 x Spicer 1-5800 - Which crosses to a Precision Part # that is half the price.
Also, Had to move my air filter - The upper rad hose is in the way now.
It's pretty getto but in the future I plan to flip the intake 180 Deg and put the filter in the cab of the truck, no time before spring fever.
I had the air filter plumbed into the cab of my old Ranger, it was very loud when you got in on it..... Maybe an air box would have made it more tolerable.
2¢
Yah, Volume is not a big concern on this thing but maybe more so now that it is a bit quieter with 4 mufflers on it
I'll revisit the air intake this winter - plan is a cam swap and flip the intake 180 deg.
Update - Was tightening the front joints and found one of the Ballistic joints was fawked. 8 years on the summit machine joints in the back, 3 years on the ballistic joints in the front. Ballistic is shit......
Good thing I found out was the balls are the same so I was able to use a Summit joint I ordered as a spare for the rear to replace it with, just had to use the ballistic ball (9/16 bolts in the rear - 5/8 in the front)
After having them both apart, the races in the summit joints are about 1/8" thicker than the ballistic ones.
I Noticed the truck has been rolling over really slow when starting this spring. I took the starter apart today and found a bunch of rust inside from what I assume was a bunch of water from Wheels A Churning
Cleaned it all up nice and put it back together and it is working fine now! After spending all that money on this thing this spring, it is nice to save a couple hundred $$$ with just 45 minutes of labor :beer:
Cleaned it all up nice and put it back together and it is working fine now! After spending all that money on this thing this spring, it is nice to save a couple hundred $$$ with just 45 minutes of labor :beer:
So I blew up another set of stock D60 shafts on Fathers Day:
Good news is this is the second time and the Grizzly locker has not been taken out with them like the Detroits have a habit of doing.
So, Rather than spend $300 on stock spicer stuff only to most likely blow it up again in the future, I decided to invest in the Yukon Cromoly Set:
I noticed the stock shafts are actually bigger in diameter after the seal surface than the Yukon shafts, kind of weird but I am sure they have a reason.
They do have a lot more meat on the "C" part than the stock shafts however.
IN!
Let's see how good they hold up and worst case, how good their warranty is!
Good news is this is the second time and the Grizzly locker has not been taken out with them like the Detroits have a habit of doing.
So, Rather than spend $300 on stock spicer stuff only to most likely blow it up again in the future, I decided to invest in the Yukon Cromoly Set:
I noticed the stock shafts are actually bigger in diameter after the seal surface than the Yukon shafts, kind of weird but I am sure they have a reason.
They do have a lot more meat on the "C" part than the stock shafts however.
IN!
Let's see how good they hold up and worst case, how good their warranty is!
Time to go to Cloyne!
The shaft is supposed to be the same diameter as the minor diameter of the splines to allow the shaft to twist a bit rather than twisting the splines. Curious to see how long the Spicer u-joints last. Going to replace them regularly as part of maintenance, or just run them until they break? Not sure what Spicer's warranty is like.
