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The Japanese Poutine
- Thread starter trixter192
- Start date
I have no problem with that MOX. There's a small chance that there's a skunk living in it though.
where is the swb, I'd like to come see if there are a few body pieces that I could use, its mostly to maintain the body line that I am looking for, top edge of tail gate, I don't have a brake to bend up that piece.
Rebuilding the corners, made pieces of scrap unistrust, I think it's 16 gauge.
Still work in progress.
Fixed pics.
Still work in progress.
Fixed pics.
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93RangerXL
Active member
Pictures arent showing up for me
Picked up a trailer in Milton this weekend. Electric brakes, 12ft, tandem 3500lb axles. It's home made, and I believe it was shortened. The overall length is a whopping 19ft. The front needs to be shortened, but it works good for now as I am a rookie at backing up trailers.
When I test the electric brakes at a crawl, I barely feel any braking power, its hardly slowing me down. I believe the brake controller is turned all the way up, I press the + button until it goes up to 99. I'm curious to test these trailer brakes on another rig. My 7 way connector has been smashed, corroded, and replaced since I owned it, I think it might be shorted internally. The previous owner said the brakes were fine. He also said the trailer had no rust, and there's plenty of structurally unsafe rusted parts on the trailer. I also need a spare. Overall, it was worth it for $1000. That means more money for the Poutine. Any advise on the trailer would be appreciated.
When I test the electric brakes at a crawl, I barely feel any braking power, its hardly slowing me down. I believe the brake controller is turned all the way up, I press the + button until it goes up to 99. I'm curious to test these trailer brakes on another rig. My 7 way connector has been smashed, corroded, and replaced since I owned it, I think it might be shorted internally. The previous owner said the brakes were fine. He also said the trailer had no rust, and there's plenty of structurally unsafe rusted parts on the trailer. I also need a spare. Overall, it was worth it for $1000. That means more money for the Poutine. Any advise on the trailer would be appreciated.
Your truck is not that short, depending on how sharp the FJ turns a longer trailer is better. short tongues equal trailers that turn sharp and unless your truck does you can't recover it and have to go forward again. Space on he front equals a place for the spare and a tool box
My problem isn't maneuverability, It's the limited space in my driveway.
More loot. I got Dan's axles http://ovo.ca/forums/showthread.php?6955-Feeler-Built-toy-axles
It also included the ram, and some spare parts. Spare shaft, and some Toyota cases with missing parts.
Now I have a TON of work to do. It might be best to stick to the 1.3 in order to make it to spring fever.
I'm looking heim style rod ends for the 4 link, but there are so many factors. Any advise would be appreciated.
It also included the ram, and some spare parts. Spare shaft, and some Toyota cases with missing parts.
Now I have a TON of work to do. It might be best to stick to the 1.3 in order to make it to spring fever.
I'm looking heim style rod ends for the 4 link, but there are so many factors. Any advise would be appreciated.
Quite the pile of parts!
http://www.summitmachine.com/index.php?p=customParts&cp=fj
Enough said..... Or Currie JJ - But I could never get past the lack of adjuster nut on those. I have had the summit machine ones for 8+ years in the rear and have only had to rebuild 2 last spring.
The Balistic joints in the front of mine are complete junk...
http://www.summitmachine.com/index.php?p=customParts&cp=fj
Enough said..... Or Currie JJ - But I could never get past the lack of adjuster nut on those. I have had the summit machine ones for 8+ years in the rear and have only had to rebuild 2 last spring.
The Balistic joints in the front of mine are complete junk...
Good axle choice! I run all heims, no complaints.
- The cowl corners complete. They aren't pretty, but who cares.
- I got a pile of 7/8 heims and bushing from PJF.
- 16" air shocks on order.
- Fixed brake lines in the engine bay.
- Built another windshield bracket. I lost one, but it was mangled.
- Found a broken plastic connector for a vacuum line - likely the cause of my engine problems.
To do:
- Look at trailer brakes, wiring. Shed weight.
- Fix carb, replace alternator.
- Axles and suspension (duh)
- Finish Hydro steering
- Floors, hood latch.
- Install new seats, locate 4pt harnesses.
- Armor, bumpers, tube fenders, family bars.
- Custom soft top
- Paint
- CB radio, FM radio
- Fix air compressor, install on-board.
FJC To Do:
- Replace torque converter
- straighten broken links
- Build bumpers
- Cap off body mounts
- Tires
- New skid plates.
- I got a pile of 7/8 heims and bushing from PJF.
- 16" air shocks on order.
- Fixed brake lines in the engine bay.
- Built another windshield bracket. I lost one, but it was mangled.
- Found a broken plastic connector for a vacuum line - likely the cause of my engine problems.
To do:
- Look at trailer brakes, wiring. Shed weight.
- Fix carb, replace alternator.
- Axles and suspension (duh)
- Finish Hydro steering
- Floors, hood latch.
- Install new seats, locate 4pt harnesses.
- Armor, bumpers, tube fenders, family bars.
- Custom soft top
- Paint
- CB radio, FM radio
- Fix air compressor, install on-board.
FJC To Do:
- Replace torque converter
- straighten broken links
- Build bumpers
- Cap off body mounts
- Tires
- New skid plates.
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Not too often you see that - what's up with the old one, and how did you manage to mess it up?
edit:
This is a heavily edited post, I mixed up my TSB's earlier.
It broke on a regular road on a summer day. There's no TSB for the issue. Tranny flush with Lubegard worked for some, but not for me. Up until last year, Toyota would not touch any automatic transmission, and would just quote $5000 for a new one, including a brand new (and still faulty design) torque converter.
There is a shop in California that rebuilds torque converters and improved the design. It would cost me about $2000 to drop the trans and ship it out for repairs. The Transmission is a sealed unit with no dip tube, and cannot be easily worked on.
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