The Japanese Poutine

trixter192

trixter192

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No progress on the Samurai. The floor is a piece of 18g sheet tack welded to rust. Lots of essential work on the FJ and trailer. New front brakes, so it actually stops. New CV, abs sensor, and trailer brakes soon.

I am very lucky that the axles were setup for a Samurai, and I have Ron's old calculations to work with, which was a LWB Samurai frame, tested and worked great. Now it's time to go measure and see where the links end up, and order brackets. All I did is change the tire size. I guess vehicle CG height should also be changed. If I change it to 36, It brings my anti-squat to 129%.





If any suspension guru's want to come take a look, I welcome your knowledge.
 
2

2Greys

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Curious to hear how this turns out this is new territory for me. With mine the truss dealt with all the guess work so i only needed to deal with pinion angle. If i was to guessyou may have to lengthen your rear arms a bit to drop the antisquat but definitely get someone elses input.
Although from everything i have read it could be good at 126 for rock crawling. I dunno
 
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mucovich

mucovich

Till Valhalla!
I wouldn't get too wrapped around the numbers, you're not building a trophy truck but here are some simple rules that I used when I built mine...
- try to make your links as long as you reasonably can
- make them as flat as you reasonably can
- vertical separation should be 6" or more (axle side) and 1/2 that measurement at the frame end (or wherever stuff fits). More especially for more horsepower and/or bigger tires.
- make the triangulated portion 40 degrees or more for decent lateral control (total between uppers and lowers) and try to keep the uppers around 70% the length of the lowers.
- use the upper bolt on your bellhousing for your center of gravity convergence point (assuming you don't know where the rigs center of gravity is)

There is ALOT to setting the perfect link suspension - so much so it can make your brain turn to mush - but these simple rules should get you started, but your calculator numbers look good, alittle high on the rear anti-squat.
 
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aweber

aweber

This thread is :rainbow:
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Yah, Try to lower the rear AS% a bit, get it below 100% - once you get everything mocked into place under the vehicle you will know where you can move things to tweak the #'s

If you triangulate the lowers more you will also be able to lower the Roll Center.....
 
trixter192

trixter192

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Picked up a running Tracker. New FJ brakes are great, pulls Suzuki's without issue. He thought it was a 98, but its a 90. So, 8 valve instead of 16. It has a nice 3 speed auto though!


 
Kunker

Kunker

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I still say the 8V is a better fit for a wheeler anyway - good score. Going to put the auto in, or keep the 5 speed?
 
trixter192

trixter192

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3 speed mechanical auto is the only thing I'm interested in. I was very disappointed to find out it was a 1990 when I decoded the Vin at home.
 
trixter192

trixter192

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I'm at a standstill pending spare time, energy, and shop space. I don't want to hand off my work to someone else, so I've been working hard and wanting to buy a house with a shop. With the season written off, I've lost interest. I am working things out to get the project on another site. Chris and Dwayne, I will buy your pending parts. I can pay you now if I have to, but I have NO space to to store things.
 
2

2Greys

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Fully appreciate how it is going. Anne has been more than patient with me as I try to get this done before the beginning of school and the young'un moving in. The lack of garage to shelter from the elements has slowed things down immensely plus work at times gets in the way what with the tempo of things going on in the world. So it is no surprise things haven't moved.

P.S remind me what I am getting rid of? :) The last thing was the transfer case and driveshaft which already went. If I do have something let me know and I can hold onto it for you.
 
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